Dress Codes explores how codes and conventions have evolved throughout history – from dressing for the royal court to ceremonial uniforms for work.
15 items of the 34 on show in the exhibition have never been displayed anywhere before, so it was a real treat to be able to be among the first to see them in-person.
I was particularly excited ahead of the preview as I knew it included three iconic pieces worn by Princess Diana, one of which is a red glittering evening gown by Bruce Oldfield from her tour of Saudi Arabia in 1987.
HELLO! spoke with Matthew Storey, curator at Historic Royal Palaces (HRP), to learn more about how the display came together, his stand-out pieces and what he wants visitors to take away from the exhibition…
Each section is dedicated to a different dress code, with a newly-acquired Dame Vivienne LBD sitting alongside a court dress and train worn by Lady Mary Holcroft from the 1930s, for the "Dressing for Court" section.
Sweet floral dresses worn by the late Queen Elizabeth and Princess Margaret from their childhood signify their own distinctive dress code. The rare surviving ensembles date back to 1936, the year of the abdication, and the matching frocks appear symbolic of a need to convey a strong family unity at the time of a constitutional crisis.
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Another famous Kensington Palace resident was Queen Victoria, who was born and raised at the royal residence. A rare mourning bodice worn by Queen Victoria in 1870, is another rare survivor from the early years following the death of her beloved husband, Prince Albert.
For the first time, Historic Royal Palaces has also partnered with three local youth organisations, and the exhibition includes contributions from young people aged 14 to 17, from storytelling to fashion design and music, to give their interpretation on the dress codes.
The exhibition is included in palace admission and runs from 13 March until 30 November 2025. Visit hrp.org.uk for tickets.
A pièce de resistance of the exhibition is the late Princess Diana's green velvet Catherine Walker tuxedo dress, worn for private events and her famous photoshoot with Maria Testino in 1997.
Princess Elizabeth and Princess Margaret's childhood dresses
Two Liberty print floral dresses worn by Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Margaret when they were children are included in the display. Up-close, you can even see where the hemlines and seams have been altered to accommodate the princesses as they grew.
The late fashion designer wore this little black dress when she was made a Dame at Buckingham Palace in 2006.
Caterina Berni, Senior Interpretation Manager at HRP, revealed that Westwood's ensemble was inspired by archive pieces from the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection.
"She's come to the palace, she knows she's got to follow the rules, but in classic Vivienne style, she takes it and makes it her own. Instead of feathers in her hair, she's wearing horns and a hat, which was inspired by Che Guevara," she tells HELLO!.
This striking two-piece was worn by the late Princess for the official naming ceremony of the 'Royal Princess' cruise liner in 1984. The scarlet jacket and skirt allowed her to stand out from the crowd, a style trick favoured by the late Queen Elizabeth II. But visitors will also be able to see the symbolic anchor detailing on the jacket's gold buttons up-close.
While Queen Victoria's crepe silk mourning bodice from 1870 is structured and understated to reflect the earlier years of her widowhood, there's a noticeable difference about the second garment of Victoria's, worn in 1897, which features layers of lace frills on the shoulders, hemline and waistband.
In contrast to Queen Victoria's black attire, the exhibition includes a delicate white and mauve lace gown worn by Queen Alexandra in around 1870, alongside a patterned Dolman cape. Caterina says of the dress: "She's showing she's really fashionable, but it is a half mourning dress. She's worn this to Royal Ascot after the death of her eldest son [Prince Albert Victor] and she wears half-mourning colours for the rest of her life as well. She wants to show the world that she's grieving, but in this beautiful, feminine, fashionable way."
A typical mourning period in the Victorian era was two years at its longest, with muted colours such as lilac, grey and lavender introduced when widows were in half-mourning.
The late Princess could be more experimental with her fashion than her sister, Elizabeth, who became heir to the throne at the age of ten. Margaret loved to covet new designers, and on a tour of the Philippines in 1980, she stepped out in this beautiful green embroidered dress by the legendary Filipino designer Jose Pitoy Moreno.
This pink ballgown, embroidered with 3D roses, is from 1958 and belonged to debutante Georgina Grattan-Bellew. Queen Charlotte founded the debutante ball in 1780, where young women from noble families were presented to the royal court as their formal introduction to society. The final ball took place at Buckingham Palace in 1958.
Dressing for work and ceremonial occasions has always come with its own strict dress codes, with many of the uniforms remaining the same for hundreds of years. Examples included in the exhibition include an extremely rare Japanese court suiting from the early 20th century, featuring gold embroidered paulownia flowers.
The final room of the exhibition features some breath-taking designs created by the Young Producers - from a take on Diana's Tuxedo-dress adorned with gold cowrie shells to a Chanel-inspired interpretation of a mourning dress.
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