Less than five miles off the coast of mainland Tunisia, the island of Djerba has historically been described as “the land of the Lotus-eaters”. In Homer’s Odyssey, Odysseus’s men find it impossible to leave after tasting the fruit of the lotus tree.
Now, 3,000 years later, I can see the appeal. Djerba is scattered with ancient olive groves, lively souks, and charming whitewashed houses with ocean-blue doors. While Tunisia is often recognised for its vast deserts and delicate culinary traditions, the island’s locals are eager to remind visitors that Djerba offers much more than “camels and couscous”.
Although only 18 miles across at its widest point, and connected to the mainland by a four-mile causeway whose origins date back to Roman times, this island marches to its own beat. There’s a single resort strip on the northeast coast, the lively main town Houmt Souk, and a scattering of villages.
Despite its year-round temperate climate (temperatures rarely dip into single digits), Djerba has long flown under the radar for British holidaymakers. But with easyJet launching direct flights from Luton and Manchester to the island last November, this hidden gem might not stay a secret for much longer. Djerba’s greatest asset is authenticity. It is largely low-density, avoiding the over development prevalent in other Mediterranean resorts.
And while it may be quieter than its lively neighbours Hammamet and Port el Kantaoui, it has plenty going on – its distinctive architecture and layout earned Djerba a Unesco designation in 2023.
Together with menzel agricultural homesteads, houch (dwellings) form a houma family settlement, which would traditionally be economically self-sufficient. There are also more than 22 mosques, a Greek orthodox church and Africa’s oldest synagogue.
Next to the lagoon on the island’s east coast, Parc Djerba Explore (£8; djerbaexplore.com), showcases this heritage with a recreated houch which demonstrates the simplicity of its traditional design. Arranged around a cooling inner courtyard, these homes are designed to accommodate up to three generations.
The park also showcases living examples of traditional Tunisian crafts, including pottery, weaving, and an olive oil mill. There are exhibits, laid-back cafés and picnic areas, as well as the excellent Lalla Hadria Museum – a private collection featuring art, calligraphy, and ceramics from the Middle East and North Africa.
The main town, Houmt Souk – “the market neighbourhood” – is a charming maze of cobblestone alleys on the north coast that bursts with colour. Locals linger in cafés over strong Arabic coffee, while nearby shops display handcrafted goods, from leather bags and pointed-toe babouches to woven rugs, spices, intricately designed ceramics and jewellery.
At the Office National des Pêches, fresh seafood is hauled in straight from the boats to be sold. Pick your catch and take it to one of the nearby cafes, where they’ll grill it as you pick your side dishes.
Near Houmt Souk’s bustling marina, El Haroun is a gently nautically themed restaurant where I feast on fresh bass, couscous and Tunisian brik – a savoury filo pastry stuffed with mashed potatoes, parsley, egg, tuna and capers – followed by a truly delicious crème brulée.
I take a 30-minute taxi ride southwest to the village of Guellala, renowned for its centuries-old tradition of pottery making. At the Foundouk Guellala de Poterie, with its own resident camel, I watch artisans at work at the wheel. The selection of beautifully handcrafted ceramics makes for the perfect souvenir.
Something completely unexpected is Djerbahood – an open-air art collection in the village of Erriadh. Kickstarted in 2014 by French street artist Invader – known for his pixellated Space Invader mosaics – and refreshed with new works in 2021, this eye-catching project has brought together 200 artists from 30 countries, transforming the village into a living canvas of bold, modern murals and striking graffiti. A visit is all the more enjoyable with time spent at one of the village’s quirky street cafés, such as Café Amour, that have popped up in recent years.
If you’re eager to explore mainland Tunisia, a day trip to Tataouine – a name Star Wars fans will recognise – is a fantastic way to see more of the country. Embark on a guided tour (£70, getyourguide.com) for a scenic two-hour drive into the desert, where you’ll discover the ancient ksour (hill forts), visit iconic Star Wars filming locations, and explore the ruins of the Berber village of Chenini.
For holidaymakers, one of Djerba’s main attractions is its climate. With average temperatures ranging from 13°C in winter to a blissful 28°C in summer, the island is a year-round destination.
Sidi Mahres is the island’s premier beach, stretching 13km from the Taguermes lighthouse in the east to Flamingo Point in the north, where pink-feathered visitors flock each February. The Zone Touristique commands the best stretch of sand, with a gently shelving shoreline.
As I sat on the coast at Sidi Yeti, my feet basking in the Mediterranean Sea, locals gathered to witness the sun setting, marking the end to another languid day on the island. After a weekend here, it’s easy to see why Odysseus’s men were so reluctant to leave.
Getting there:
The new easyJet route runs from Manchester or London Luton to Djerba-Zarzis International Airport and takes around three-and-a-half hours.
Staying there:
TUI Magic Life Penelope Beach has rooms from £546pp for seven nights all-inclusive and features eight pools, a private beach, restaurant and activities, tui.co.uk
More information:
