he Hindu temples of Taxila, in the Rawalpindi district, built in the second quarter of the Twentieth Century, testify to the city’s glorious past. These temples reflect the distinctive Pothohari temple architecture and are noted for their elegance and aesthetics. They are located on Railway Road and in Purana Bazaar. The three temples built together are the most magnificent, albeit now in a poor state of preservation. These particular temples are situated on Railway Road.

According to an inscription on the façade of one of the temples, it was built by Ram Rakhi in memory of her husband. Muslim, Hindu and Sikh women played an important role in commissioning religious buildings in Pothohar.

The role of Pothohari women in architecture is under-researched. I have been documenting their contributions to art, architecture, philanthropy and welfare work since 1998. Muslim women in Pothohar constructed baolis (stepped wells), wells, tanks, mosques, tombs and fortresses. Hindu and Sikh women in the region also built baolis, wells, tanks, havelis, hospitals, schools and temples. They generously donated to the construction of religious structures. The names of many Sikh and Hindu women are inscribed on donor plaques in temples and gurdwaras, reflecting their devotion to their faith.

Almost every town in Pothohar has a historical building that was commissioned by a woman.

The temples of Ram Rakhi are now in a crumbling condition. There are three temples and rooms for pilgrims, which now lie in ruins. The central temple is flanked by two smaller temples that once housed the images of Hindu deities.

The temples of Ram Rakhi in Taxila are distinctive for their three shikharas (superstructures) that crown the garbhagrihas (innermost sanctuaries). Typically, one would find either a single temple or two temples built together. In rare instances, a central temple may be surrounded by four additional temples or shrines, designed in the Pancharatha/ Pancharatna style. A notable example of this is the Kalyan Das Temple located in Kohati Bazaar, Rawalpindi.

It is common in Pothohar region to find samadhis near temples. Wells and accommodations for pilgrims were often available. In certain instances, these pilgrim accommodations were integrated with the temple complex; in others, they were located a short distance away. Numerous temples in Pothohar featured adjacent samadhis, Qutbal and Gulyana are prominent examples of this.

Qutbal is a historic village located in the Fateh Jang tehsil of Attock. It features several monuments, including a pond (ban), a temple, a samadhi (memorial), and a mansion (mari). The temple and the samadhi are situated side by side. The temple is believed to have been constructed by Lakhi Devi in memory of her father, Narain Singh, in 1924. An inscribed slab is affixed to the façade of the temple. It is built on a square plan, with the garbhagriha topped by a square shikhara – a style that differs from most other temples in the Pothohar region. However, a similar square shikhara can be seen in the temples of Ram Rakhi at Taxila.

The Taxila temples of Ram Rakhi are particularly notable for their striking trio of shikharas, which are visible from a distance. The entrance to these temples is through an ornate portico, beautifully embellished with rosettes and star motifs. This exquisite portico also features intricate carvings of floral patterns and geometric designs, highlighting the refined craftsmanship of the artisans who built it.

Inside, one finds a central temple that served as the primary place of worship, flanked by two smaller subsidiary temples or shrines. One of these shrines was dedicated to Hanuman, the other to Shiva. Regrettably, the temple no longer houses the images of Hanuman and Shiva, as these were taken away by the temple’s owners and relocated to India following the Partition.

These temples are among the grandest structures in Pothohar. They bear a resemblance to the temple at Bagh Sardaran in Rawalpindi, believed to have been built by Rai Bahadur Sardar Soojan Singh and known as the Raghunath Temple.

The temples of Taxila possess their own distinct characteristics and appeal. The mouldings and brackets on the outer walls of the garbhagrihas are remarkable, reflecting the taste and aesthetics of both the artists and the builder. Two forms of decoration – stucco and painting – adorn the temples. The shikharas of all three temples are also decorated with stucco. Even the niches – apparently intended for sculptural decoration – on the shikharas were given special attention by the artists, who appear to have carved them with great delicacy. The arches below the shikharas are similarly adorned with stuccowork. Remarkably, even the spandrels of these arches are embellished with stucco.

Nowhere else in Pothohar can one find structures as magnificent as those in the town of Taxila. The artists meticulously focused on and decorated every architectural element of the temples.

The shikhara of the central temple is square in shape, while those of the adjacent temples are octagonal. However, the bases of the flanking shikharas are square, reflecting a unique style of shikhara architecture not found elsewhere in Pothohar. All the shikharas appear to emerge from lotus buds.

An inscription – in Hindi, Urdu and Gurmukhi – just above the doorway of the central garbhagriha, records that Shrimati Ram Rakhi built the temples in memory of her late husband, Bhagat Lal Chand Ji Jaggi of Rawalpindi, on December 15, 1933 AD. Moreover, the scribe of this slab was Sriman Swami Diyanand Sarsvati Ji, the president of the Temples Committee, Taxila. The same inscription appears in Hindi on the shikhara of the southern temple.

The garbhagriha of the central temple is decorated with murals. On the western wall is a depiction of Rama with Hanuman, who is shown paying his respects to Rama. Nearby is a representation of Krishna, with cows depicted on either side of him. The garbhagriha is also adorned with floral designs. The ceiling of the garbhagriha features stucco decoration, including a lotus flower on the vault.

The courtyard and circumambulatory path are decorated with tiles. The garbhagriha is preceded by three arched entrances. Its outer walls are embellished with cusped arches. The passageway for circumambulation (pradakshina) is also decorated with cusped arches and alcoves for holding oil lamps. The ceiling of this passageway carries stucco ornamentation. The dripstones – apparently constructed to protect the building from rain – on all three temples are also remarkable.

The architecture of the Taxila temples differs from that of other temples in the Pothohar region. However, the shikharas of the two flanking temples resemble that of the temple located in Ganj Mandi, Rawalpindi. The stucco work is a distinctive feature unique to the Taxila temples. Similar murals can be found in the temples of Krishna in Kallar Syedan, the Beval temple in Gujar Khan and the Shiva (Shivala) temple in Fateh Jang town. Comparable decorations on the shikharas of the Taxila temples are also seen in the temples of Haryal village in Gujar Khan and the Hari Mandir in Hazro town.

The relevant authorities must take immediate and decisive action to protect these temples from further deterioration and potential destruction. These historical and cultural sites should be officially included in the list of designated tourist attractions to highlight their significance. Furthermore, tourists planning to visit Taxila must be provided with proper guidance and information about these temples. This can be achieved through informative signage, guided tours and promotional materials that emphasise the temples’ historical importance and architectural beauty. By doing so, we can ensure that this precious cultural heritage is preserved for future generations.

The writer is an anthropologist at the Pakistan Institute of Development Economics, Islamabad. He has authored 17 books on Pakistan’s cultural heritage  nd anthropology. He tweets @kalhorozulfiqar. He may be contacted at zulfi04@hotmail.com